Recently the lovely Tony Fleming, Head Chef at No.1 Aldwych, entered a dessert into the Best British Dish - a blackberry soufflé with a blackberry and elderflower granita.
I adore soufflés - I usually order it if I see one on the menu - and find it a very good way of comparing chefs. Technique is rarely the issue, but even in Michelin starred restaurants you find the most extraordinary combination of ingredients. As a result, some soufflés are simply tasteless and mediocre, some are rather nasty, and some absolutely sing.